Carla Bragagnini

After ending a year that was probably the most isolated in modern history, people thought it was funny when I told them I had organized a three-day van adventure… alone. Don’t get me wrong, I love travelling with others because there’s nothing better than having shared experiences and laughs with loved ones. But I also enjoy travelling alone sometimes because I can be on my own agenda and make solo decisions as I go along.

So whether you are travelling with others, or alone, like me, here are some lessons I learned after spending three days exploring the local regions of Montérégie and the Eastern Townships with Lazy Camper Van.

1. Plan to trip plan:

Before you set off, start researching the places on your wish list. Trip planning is half the fun! If you are travelling with others, get together and map out your itinerary over some good food and drinks. Search blogs, Instagram, YouTube or even TikTok for some inspiring ideas and visuals of hidden gems along the way. Get creative and enjoy this part!

Check out any special events or festivals taking place during your travels (the local tourism board is the perfect place to start), and research any activities (kayaking, rock climbing, wine tours, etc.), or places worth visiting in advance. I made sure to search for nearby parks, their admission fees and reviews, as well as opening days for places of interest. For example, there was a brewery on my list, but I read online that they were closed on Mondays, as were many other restaurants and tourism hotspots in the region, so I made sure to plan around that. There’s no greater road trip buzzkill than being met with a giant fermé sign.

2. Widen your accommodation search:

In my trip planning, knowing the general direction and budget was a great starting point, as that helped me set some parameters around accommodation and activities. But trust me, you’re already on the right track with a campervan rental, as it opens up a whole world of opportunities, allowing you to simply pick up and go, as you travel from place to place. Personally, I used official campgrounds because I wanted to have space to cook and access to amenities.

In that case, you can try the Sépaq Parks or Parks Canada, but keep in mind, they are more popular in the summer (otherwise, there are plenty of private campgrounds that tend to have more availability). Since you already have a bed on-the-go, there are also plenty of apps and Facebook groups that offer advice for free camping and parking – Quebec’s nature is immense and the options are unlimited. If you are flexible, travelling during the week allows you to skip the weekend travel rush.

3. Leave some room for spontaneity:

For my trip, I didn’t book any accommodation in advance, but I made sure to call campgrounds ahead to check that I had options available in each place, just in case. That gave me peace of mind, as well as the flexibility to be able to make a detour, if I was feeling adventurous. Ideally, you want to have a few things planned but also leave some loose ends to let things unfold organically.

I was hoping to drive up to Frontenac National Park, but decided to spend more time in the Coaticook region instead. If I’d booked the campground at Frontenac, I wouldn’t have been able to follow my road trip impulses. Of course, if you have a better idea of your itinerary and don’t want to leave it up to the fate of the travel gods, go ahead and book your accommodation in advance – only you know what works best for you.

4. Offline maps are your best friend:

Offline maps turned out to be my most valuable copilot, especially since having access to data is one of those things we can’t often control. So whether you want to save your monthly usage or navigate without relying on the strength of the network in remote areas, offline maps will allow you to cruise effortlessly to your next adventure. And just think – you can put all the money you saved into buying road trip snacks along the way! 

5. Less is more

The Lazy Camper Van will have all the essentials you need – it will be fully stocked with kitchen amenities and cooking supplies – even down to dishwashing detergent! You will also get a large capacity water tank, so you can stay well hydrated.

For packing, you only need to bring some clothes, bedding (in some cases) and a few extracurricular activities to occupy your time (books, games, instruments, etc.) – though to be honest, from my experience, you’ll be too busy exploring to make time for any of this! For periods of downtime, I was happy to have brought a book, a ukulele and my laptop (special shout-out to pre-downloaded Netflix movies for entertaining me during an evening thunderstorm!).

6. Save your appetite:

In the beginning, I was eager to cook on the road, so I brought many of my food supplies with me, like I would with a camping trip. But I quickly learned that the beauty of a van trip is that you are constantly on the move, covering vast distances and passing many fascinating places and people along the way. And the best part is – you have the freedom to stop wherever you want! So bringing too much food was a real rookie mistake. It turns out that some of the best memories are made stopping at roadside stands, farms, restaurants and markets to sample and pick up fresh and local cuisine. In the end, my overpacking was no big deal, I just managed to somehow return to Montreal with almost as much food as I left with.

7. Think local:

Not only is it a good idea to support local food and drink producers and tourism in general, but it’s also wise to hit locals for advice. If you stop by a cidery, consider asking the gift shop employee if they know a nice beach nearby or ask the receptionist at your campground if they know of any beautiful hikes in the area. People who live in the place you are visiting are usually unofficial tourism experts and likely love sharing the highlights of their region with travellers.

More officially, you can also visit any local tourism office for helpful advice. After I visited the tourism office in Frelighsburg, the staff there sent me to a free art gallery show and introduced me to some of the finest orchards in the region, as well giving me their top picks for stops along the wine route. And don’t forget, before you go, you can reach out to the team at Lazy Camper Van, they are always happy to offer personalized advice to help make your road trip dreams come true.

8. Be present:

Sometimes I caught myself taking a photo of a place before I had really soaked in the experience for myself. I was so used to busy city life that I had to remind myself to breathe and enjoy the moment. A van trip is definitely a bucket list-worthy journey, especially after the year we’ve had, so keep in mind, your only tasks are to slow down, eat good food, get out of your comfort zone and drive your way to the adventures of a lifetime.

The sound of sirens came up from behind me. And before I knew it, I was surrounded. I wasn’t speeding, but I think I knew what this was about. I took a deep breath and pulled over. Getting stopped by three police SUVs was not how I pictured this road trip going.

But here I was, an outlaw in the town of Stanstead in the Eastern Townships and it was only day two into my road trip with Lazy Campervan.

“I’m a travel writer, just a tourist,” I told them as I handed over my driver’s license – doing my best to flash a friendly smile, even though nothing could cover the smell of fear emanating from the vehicle.

To be honest, it’s funny to me how I even ended up in this town right on the border between Quebec and Vermont. You see, I was born in Peru, but grew up close to the US border on the other side of the country – in British Columbia. I had been travelling for a few years and when the pandemic hit, I decided to trade my one way ticket to New Zealand for a more domestic one – and that’s how I found myself living the van life in Quebec.

As a long-term traveller, I’ve been to my fair share of border crossings. But to me, Stanstead has one of the most interesting ones in the world and that’s what lured me here. First of all, there are sections of it that not exactly well secured (hence the heavy police presence). You can literally look across the street and watch as people in the United States go about their daily lives. It’s fascinating watching those little green Vermont license plates zoom by, from the comfort of Canada.

There’s even a library that is right smack in between the two countries – the Haskell Library and Opera House. And how’s this for identity confusion? The library has a stage in Canada, while its theatre seats are located in the U.S.. But if you lurk around the town for too long, as I did, you’re bound to be stopped, questioned and yes, even fully searched by the police – you have been warned. 

I was detained, but as soon as my story checked out, the cops let me go. They even played tour guides for a moment, giving me directions to the location I was after – Canusa Road. Canusa Road is a drivable road that straddles the border (hence the name, (CAN-USA Road) – the right lane is in Canada, while the left lane is in Vermont. They left me with a final word – “Whatever you do, don’t turn left at the end of the road.” When you do so, you cross illegally into the U.S.. Having had enough action for one day, you better believe I made the most intentional right-hand turn I have ever made in my life. U.S.A., see you next time.

Before you get escorted out, make sure you check out the Stanstead Stone Circle, which is made of local granite and resembles Stonehenge (time it for the solstice like I did for a truly magical experience).

As I left my experience in the rearview mirror, the scenic drive from Stanstead to Coaticook calmed my nerves. The rain-filled clouds gave way to sunshine and the picturesque landscapes were sprinkled with dairy farms, fromageries and rounded barns that characterize this region. There’s a legend about how the barns’ circular shapes are due to someone having made a pact with the dark side, which didn’t allow edges. As exciting as that story is, it seems the constructions allow for easier logistics for animal farming. Nevertheless, these devilish barns are very unique to the Coaticook Valley.

That evening, I camped at Parc de la Gorge. To be honest, I wasn’t expecting the park to be so extensive, otherwise I would have booked more time there! The park boasts over twenty kilometres of hiking trails and has trails for mountain biking, and even its own farm, which are all included in the camping pass. The camping sites are really well distributed and isolated and I secured a piece of prime real estate by the river. In the evenings, the park hosts a magical light night show called “Foresta Lumina,” which lights up the forest with an enchanting multimedia spectacle.

I spent one very stormy night at the park, during which I was very grateful to have a roof over my head (thanks Lazy Campervan!). The next day, I planned on continuing my trip, but I couldn’t leave with checking out North America’s longest suspended foot bridge, right in the park. At 169 metres long, it soars 50 metres up above the gorge. There was no need for coffee that morning – as an early morning activity, the views below are sure to get your adrenaline pumping.

I left the park and drove to the town of Baldwin Mills in the Coaticook region, in hopes of tackling Mount Pinacle (not to be confused with the other Mount Pinnacle, which is found further west in Frelighsburg!). I pulled up to the general store, where an employee pointed me to the hidden starting point, halfway up a street that, according to the smell left behind, seemed to be more trafficked by cows than by cars (this is Coaticook afterall!). I parked the van next to a little church and started walking towards the trailhead. I was pleasantly surprised to find the first part of the hike located in a sugar bush, a tapped maple tree forest, which had functioning tubes set up for maple water collection.

The free hiking area of Mount Pinacle has 7.8 kilometres of hiking trails and even spots for rock climbing. I opted for a pleasant 4.3 kilometre loop hike that takes you up a moderately steep climb to a stunning lookout point over Lac Lyster within the first 45 minutes. And what a view! I prepared a picnic at the top and pulled out a book, as falcons flew overhead. This moment was as zen as it gets. The loop continued up to another breathtaking lookout point, where I lingered a little too long, reflecting on my trip and not wanting the experience to end.

I hesitantly returned to the parking lot and embraced the final day of the road trip, while preparing myself to make the long drive back to Montreal. As I opened all the van doors and started cleaning out the cooler and sink, I heard this excited voice behind me.

“Wow, super van. Le rêve!” a woman exclaimed as she peeked inside the van to get a better look. She was right. The trip, the van, the adventures and even the misadventures, all of it – it really was a dream.

Montérégie and Eastern Townships are two charming regions with proximity to Montréal, found south of the St. Lawrence and north of the U.S. border. They are filled with farms, mountains, lakes, parks, villages and an abundance of history. The areas are paradise for food and drink lovers – everything from fresh regional products, u-pick berries, farmer’s markets, boulangeries, gourmet restaurants, you name it – and it’s always washed down with innovative and traditional flavours from local cideries, vineyards, microbreweries and microdistilleries. So, what are you waiting for? Grab a seat in the Lazy Campervan and let’s go!

Montérégie

La Prairie:

Shortly after leaving Montreal, the van’s gas tank was full, but my body definitely needed re-fuelling. And what’s a road trip without sampling as you go along? So I wasn’t on the road for long before making my first pit stop in La Prairie.

La Boîte Vegane is a comfort foods plant-based restaurant with a tranquil terrasse, located in this off-island suburb of Montreal. They take advantage of the local foods in the region, like sourcing their lettuce from a pair of young farmers in Sherbrooke, for example. They also lend a hand in the community, most recently helping to feed the homeless in Montreal. Though they offer burgers, hot dogs and poutine, I knew I had to taste the latter – Quebec’s most famous dish. As the next stop on the road trip would be Venise-en-Quebec, I wanted to get myself in the mood, so it made sense to sample the Italian poutine, the perfect fusion of Quebecois food with an Italian twist. And just when you thought the combination of fries, gravy and cheese curds couldn’t get any better – try topping it with a veggie bolognese – mamma mia, c’est bon ça!

Venise-en-Quebec:

As someone who grew up on the laid-back west coast, I was inspired to put the “lazy” in Lazy Campervan from the get-go, so I spent my first day lounging around the beach town of Venise-en-Quebec on Lake Champlain’s Baie de Venise. As gentle waves hit the shore (drink in hand encouraged – but optional), vacation mode was “on.” Suddenly, time stopped and there was no where else I had to be. When I left the city behind, this is exactly the kind of experience I was after.

The quaint town centre is home to a public market, “Le Vénisien” – a set up of little white kiosks, where vendors sell everything from seasonal products to homemade candy and artisanal creations. If I wasn’t still stuffed from the Italian poutine, this would’ve been the perfect casual place for dinner. The stands sell everything from – you guessed it – more poutine to waffles, wraps, tacos and pizza. And to drink, there’s an entire hut devoted to bubble tea and even one that doubles as a cocktail bar.

Sticking with the Italian theme, I had to visit the gelateria, “Gelato-Sorbets-Produits Keto.” Keeping things local, they sweeten some of their ice creams with Quebec’s own liquid gold – maple syrup. I ordered the mojito and piña colada sorbets and as my tastebuds danced to tropical tunes, I watched sunset fall over the town from a bench on the boardwalk, painting it in orange and purple gelato-inspired hues.

Eastern Townships

Bedford:

The next day, my first stop in the Eastern Townships was the town of Bedford. Bedford itself is on the food map as the town where the inventor of peanut butter, Marcellus Gilmore Edson, a Quebec chemist, was born. In 1884, he received the first patent for peanut butter (or “peanut candy,” as it was called back then), which he created as a nutrient-rich food.

Unfortunately, I didn’t have much luck finding peanut butter-themed anything in Bedford, but I did come across a delicious boulangerie, Chouquette et Amandine. They offer some viennoiseries and pâtisseries, inspired by local products, like roulées with maple syrup and nuts, raspberry-almond tartelettes and apple chaussons. After you’ve indulged your sweet tooth, have a look at their bread selection and get your gluten on, choosing from over 40 varieties!

Frelighsburg:

To me, Frelighsburg, located at the foot of Mount Pinnacle (part of the Apalacchian mountain range) was one of the most picturesque villages on my road trip. It is composed of heritage buildings like a grammar school converted to a tourist office, gift shop and art gallery, a general store (dating back to 1815) serving as a café and a series of restaurants starting at the mouth of the Pike River. The area is surrounded by cideries and vineyards, so for beverage aficionados, this is a must-see on the wine and cider routes.

Les Sucreries de l’Érable, set at the general store is a trip back through time, as it is filled with vintage Quebecois memorabilia, including antique license plates, milk tins, peanut butter cans (finally there’s the Canadian peanut butter evidence I was looking for!).

They carry a multitude of apple products from Au Cœur de la Pomme, a local orchard that makes apple butter, cider, vinegar, jams, jellies and even the intriguing concoction of a mustard made from maple syrup and cider. You can’t walk out the door without picking up a piece of their homemade maple syrup pie – pair it with fresh apple juice from the village for the ultimate sugar rush.

Dunham:

Not only is the town of Dunham surrounded by apple trees, but it is also the site of Quebec’s first commercial winery. So in this context, the Brasserie Dunham, specializing in all things beer, really does something unique.

It is housed in the Relais de la Diligence, which used to be a posthouse for horses and carriages, a hotel for the upper class, and at one point, a factory making equipment for maple syrup production. If this building could talk, oh the stories it would tell! Made entirely of orange bricks, it just oozes generations of history.

The resto-pub’s terrasse is one of the best gems I encountered on my travels. It was frequented by couples and friends having lunch and colleagues getting together for creative meetings. It felt like the place where big and little ideas have been shared in good company for decades. I loved the juxtaposition of the historical structures and the pops of colour from the modern decoration, the arcade machines, murals, boutique shop and the artwork gracing the cans. As I sipped the Foudres Unis beer, a fruity collaboration between seven breweries, I soaked up the afternoon rays in a moment of boozy perfection.

Coaticook:

The Coaticook region is synonymous with everything dairy, as evidenced by the farms dotting the landscapes. Laiterie Coaticook, one of the largest ice creameries in Quebec and producer of cheese curds, cheddar and goat cheeses, sets up its base in town. In nearby Compton, you can also visit Le Station Fromagerie and pick up local flavours resulting from organic pastures. As someone who doesn’t consume dairy, I had my work cut out for me in the Coaticook Valley. Even when I went to get coffee in town, it wasn’t possible to get any other milk other than cow’s (I tried!).

In times like these, I was really happy to enjoy the kitchen amenities of my Lazy Campervan. It was easy to make myself a cappuccino right in the comfort of camp using the van’s stovetop espresso pot and some chilled oat milk from the cooler (probably much to the disapproval of the entire town of Coaticook). But nevertheless, that brings me to one of the best food experiences of the trip…

Chez Vangelina:

Vangelina, the Toyota Sienna, who served as my trusty companion on this road trip was much more than a vehicle to get me from point A to B, she also served as a hotel, walk-in closet and a kitchen on wheels. There’s nothing like being able to set up camp in different scenic locations each night and having an electric cooler, sink, grill and all the kitchen supplies at your disposal to cook up a home-made (or rather, van-made) meal.

Everyone who noticed my set up let me know how they felt about it (“bien equipé!” people with their thumbs up and approving grins would shout at me from across the campgrounds). Having Vangelina’s crowd-pleasing amenities meant I could source some of the region’s finest ingredients en route – fresh fruits, vegetables, paired with locally-sourced wine, cider or beer, for a cozy evening “in.” Turns out the best meal of all was cooked using ingredients hand-picked on the road. Each one had a delicious story to tell of a place that captured my heart (and stomach) along the way.